FC/OT: One of the best restaurants in the world is closing…and HBO Max’s ‘The Menu’….

Midnighter

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Noma, the high concept, ultra luxurious restaurant brainchild of chef Rene Redzepi (named best restaurant in the world five times, most recently in 2021), is closing at the end of 2024. Redzepi noted the business model is unsustainable ($500 per person tasting menu before pairings) citing the backbreaking work and reliance on unpaid staff to make everything work (Redzepi has taken heat lately when news of the environment at the restaurant - mostly from unpaid workers - came to light; one staffer wrote how her entire job was to create jam insects using tweezers and that was it).

I only discovered Noma more recently in a Netflix documentary. I was disgusted when I saw Redzepi’s plan to open a pop up in Tulum and used local women to make dozens of tortillas for him for each service (no idea how much, or if, they were paid). This is the kind of event the ultra wealthy plan a vacation around. Again, barf inducing. What I find really funny is how similar this feels to ‘The Menu’ which is streaming on HBO. Ralph Fiennes plays a version of Redzepi at a hyper exclusive restaurant on a private island. Fiennes’ character has a very specific menu planned for his group of guests and throughout the evening - as the menu progresses - he muses about how the continually rising expectations of customers and Instagram-foodie culture has robbed whatever joy he once had for cooking. The work is so meticulous and ornate it’s nearly unbearable to watch (the breadless bread course is wonderfully on point). Of course, it spirals from there and is actually quite enjoyable (Anya Taylor-Joy also stars) but it’s spot on with its criticism of elite food culture and its consumption.

I guess if you want to eat at Noma I’d get moving - I hear they have thousands of reservation requests a day. Which begs the question, if you can’t sustain a restaurant (paying for labor) at $500 a person - WTF is going on?

 

Got GSPs

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Noma, the high concept, ultra luxurious restaurant brainchild of chef Rene Redzepi (named best restaurant in the world five times, most recently in 2021), is closing at the end of 2024. Redzepi noted the business model is unsustainable ($500 per person tasting menu before pairings) citing the backbreaking work and reliance on unpaid staff to make everything work (Redzepi has taken heat lately when news of the environment at the restaurant - mostly from unpaid workers - came to light; one staffer wrote how her entire job was to create jam insects using tweezers and that was it).

I only discovered Noma more recently in a Netflix documentary. I was disgusted when I saw Redzepi’s plan to open a pop up in Tulum and used local women to make dozens of tortillas for him for each service (no idea how much, or if, they were paid). This is the kind of event the ultra wealthy plan a vacation around. Again, barf inducing. What I find really funny is how similar this feels to ‘The Menu’ which is streaming on HBO. Ralph Fiennes plays a version of Redzepi at a hyper exclusive restaurant on a private island. Fiennes’ character has a very specific menu planned for his group of guests and throughout the evening - as the menu progresses - he muses about how the continually rising expectations of customers and Instagram-foodie culture has robbed whatever joy he once had for cooking. The work is so meticulous and ornate it’s nearly unbearable to watch (the breadless bread course is wonderfully on point). Of course, it spirals from there and is actually quite enjoyable (Anya Taylor-Joy also stars) but it’s spot on with its criticism of elite food culture and its consumption.

I guess if you want to eat at Noma I’d get moving - I hear they have thousands of reservation requests a day. Which begs the question, if you can’t sustain a restaurant (paying for labor) at $500 a person - WTF is going on?

That treatment of their kitchen staff is despicable. I couldn’t justify $500 per person meal either… or more accurately, my wife would kill me if I paid that much for a meal. LOL
 

Midnighter

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That treatment of their kitchen staff is despicable. I couldn’t justify $500 per person meal either… or more accurately, my wife would kill me if I paid that much for a meal. LOL

Right? Though I agree ‘cooking’ is as valid as any other art form (maybe moreso), do you have to be a prick to do it well? It’s a form of art that is extremely personal but the culture around it is so awful. Probably doesn’t pay to be a nice guy in the business but the fine dining hey day might sunsetting. Curious to hear what David Chang has to say about this - he’s friends with Redzepi but has been very vocal about the need for the industry to change.
 

Woodpecker

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$500 for something that I will (hopefully) sh*t out the next day?
 

manatree

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Given David Chang’s history of employee relations, he’s the last person people should be listening to. However, he has performed a great image makeover that every politician envys.
 

Midnighter

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Given David Chang’s history of employee relations, he’s the last person people should be listening to. However, he has performed a great image makeover that every politician envys.

He’s been pretty lucky for sure. But, when he was coming up it was okay to run a kitchen like a jail and scream at customers. Alas, all good things….
 

EPC FAN

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Noma, the high concept, ultra luxurious restaurant brainchild of chef Rene Redzepi (named best restaurant in the world five times, most recently in 2021), is closing at the end of 2024. Redzepi noted the business model is unsustainable ($500 per person tasting menu before pairings) citing the backbreaking work and reliance on unpaid staff to make everything work (Redzepi has taken heat lately when news of the environment at the restaurant - mostly from unpaid workers - came to light; one staffer wrote how her entire job was to create jam insects using tweezers and that was it).

I only discovered Noma more recently in a Netflix documentary. I was disgusted when I saw Redzepi’s plan to open a pop up in Tulum and used local women to make dozens of tortillas for him for each service (no idea how much, or if, they were paid). This is the kind of event the ultra wealthy plan a vacation around. Again, barf inducing. What I find really funny is how similar this feels to ‘The Menu’ which is streaming on HBO. Ralph Fiennes plays a version of Redzepi at a hyper exclusive restaurant on a private island. Fiennes’ character has a very specific menu planned for his group of guests and throughout the evening - as the menu progresses - he muses about how the continually rising expectations of customers and Instagram-foodie culture has robbed whatever joy he once had for cooking. The work is so meticulous and ornate it’s nearly unbearable to watch (the breadless bread course is wonderfully on point). Of course, it spirals from there and is actually quite enjoyable (Anya Taylor-Joy also stars) but it’s spot on with its criticism of elite food culture and its consumption.

I guess if you want to eat at Noma I’d get moving - I hear they have thousands of reservation requests a day. Which begs the question, if you can’t sustain a restaurant (paying for labor) at $500 a person - WTF is going on?

He’s a pretentious prick. No, I don’t care what you think about that comment.
 
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Midnighter

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I'm calling BS on the not paying staff bit. There are whole government departments dedicated to protecting the workers in this country.

This is Denmark….and they’re not unpaid staff - they’re ‘interns’.
 
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Midnighter

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Okay, don’t want to spoil anything, but a good old fashioned cheeseburger is a key plot point in ‘The Menu’ - looks like you can grab one using the show’s recipe in LA this week. I will say after seeing the cheeseburger in the film I immediately wanted one…

 
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manatree

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This is Denmark….and they’re not unpaid staff - they’re ‘interns’.

Ah, yes, the ‘stage,‘ which is still a time honored tradition today, even in the US. Restaurants have a long history of bad treatment of employees. George Orwell even wrote about it in his first book ‘Down and Out in Paris and London.’ Quite a few chefs even revel in it or describe it wistfully in their books such as Anthony Bourdain, Gabrielle Hamilton, etc.
 
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Midnighter

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Oct 7, 2021
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Ah, yes, the ‘stage,‘ which is still a time honored tradition today, even in the US. Restaurants have a long history of bad treatment of employees. George Orwell even wrote about in his first book ‘Down and Out in Paris and London.’ Quite a few chefs even revel in it or describe it wistfully in their books such as Anthony Bourdain, Gabrielle Hamilton, etc.

Bourdain wouldn’t last a week in today’s food scene. Chang either but he managed to avoid all the collateral damage his friends and colleagues caused…
 

WestSideLion

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the business conundrum with these restaurants is that to be innovative and differentiate from other luxury restaurants, you essentially need to be vertically integrated. you have to grow, design and produce all the food ideas on your own. Noma has a dish served in beeswax bowls for example. You don't just call up a food service supplier and order beeswax bowls. You have to pay staff to painstakingly make them by hand. Heck, each bowl could cost you $25 alone. That kind of overhead just kills a business no matter how much patrons are willing to pay.
 

Alphalion75

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Noma, the high concept, ultra luxurious restaurant brainchild of chef Rene Redzepi (named best restaurant in the world five times, most recently in 2021), is closing at the end of 2024. Redzepi noted the business model is unsustainable ($500 per person tasting menu before pairings) citing the backbreaking work and reliance on unpaid staff to make everything work (Redzepi has taken heat lately when news of the environment at the restaurant - mostly from unpaid workers - came to light; one staffer wrote how her entire job was to create jam insects using tweezers and that was it).

I only discovered Noma more recently in a Netflix documentary. I was disgusted when I saw Redzepi’s plan to open a pop up in Tulum and used local women to make dozens of tortillas for him for each service (no idea how much, or if, they were paid). This is the kind of event the ultra wealthy plan a vacation around. Again, barf inducing. What I find really funny is how similar this feels to ‘The Menu’ which is streaming on HBO. Ralph Fiennes plays a version of Redzepi at a hyper exclusive restaurant on a private island. Fiennes’ character has a very specific menu planned for his group of guests and throughout the evening - as the menu progresses - he muses about how the continually rising expectations of customers and Instagram-foodie culture has robbed whatever joy he once had for cooking. The work is so meticulous and ornate it’s nearly unbearable to watch (the breadless bread course is wonderfully on point). Of course, it spirals from there and is actually quite enjoyable (Anya Taylor-Joy also stars) but it’s spot on with its criticism of elite food culture and its consumption.

I guess if you want to eat at Noma I’d get moving - I hear they have thousands of reservation requests a day. Which begs the question, if you can’t sustain a restaurant (paying for labor) at $500 a person - WTF is going on?

The Menu was a terrible flick.
 
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BrucePa

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High end dining is dying because of over work. It's not sustainable. That doesn't mean all high dining will die an instant death, and many concepts will come and go to satisfy the desire for theses high-end chefs to continue to produce high quality foods. The brigade style is dying, but the more zen style of Eric Ripert and Patrick O'Connell will take their craft with them to the grave.
 

Midnighter

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High end dining is dying because of over work. It's not sustainable. That doesn't mean all high dining will die an instant death, and many concepts will come and go to satisfy the desire for theses high-end chefs to continue to produce high quality foods. The brigade style is dying, but the more zen style of Eric Ripert and Patrick O'Connell will take their craft with them to the grave.

Oh, I’m sure Redzepi will do pop ups and more exclusive work many people will still continue to pay lots of money for; it’ll be less strain day to day and probably more money for him.
 
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BrucePa

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Oh, I’m sure Redzepi will do pop ups and more exclusive work many people will still continue to pay lots of money for; it’ll be less strain day to day and probably more money for him.
Once you reach Redzepi's level, the cash flow comes from cookbooks and Netflix specials, speaking tours, and softer concepts. He will likely keep it closer to the vest than Gordon Ramsey, who tours the world climbing mountains and eating off-the-grid foods.
 
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