Noma, the high concept, ultra luxurious restaurant brainchild of chef Rene Redzepi (named best restaurant in the world five times, most recently in 2021), is closing at the end of 2024. Redzepi noted the business model is unsustainable ($500 per person tasting menu before pairings) citing the backbreaking work and reliance on unpaid staff to make everything work (Redzepi has taken heat lately when news of the environment at the restaurant - mostly from unpaid workers - came to light; one staffer wrote how her entire job was to create jam insects using tweezers and that was it).
I only discovered Noma more recently in a Netflix documentary. I was disgusted when I saw Redzepi’s plan to open a pop up in Tulum and used local women to make dozens of tortillas for him for each service (no idea how much, or if, they were paid). This is the kind of event the ultra wealthy plan a vacation around. Again, barf inducing. What I find really funny is how similar this feels to ‘The Menu’ which is streaming on HBO. Ralph Fiennes plays a version of Redzepi at a hyper exclusive restaurant on a private island. Fiennes’ character has a very specific menu planned for his group of guests and throughout the evening - as the menu progresses - he muses about how the continually rising expectations of customers and Instagram-foodie culture has robbed whatever joy he once had for cooking. The work is so meticulous and ornate it’s nearly unbearable to watch (the breadless bread course is wonderfully on point). Of course, it spirals from there and is actually quite enjoyable (Anya Taylor-Joy also stars) but it’s spot on with its criticism of elite food culture and its consumption.
I guess if you want to eat at Noma I’d get moving - I hear they have thousands of reservation requests a day. Which begs the question, if you can’t sustain a restaurant (paying for labor) at $500 a person - WTF is going on?
I only discovered Noma more recently in a Netflix documentary. I was disgusted when I saw Redzepi’s plan to open a pop up in Tulum and used local women to make dozens of tortillas for him for each service (no idea how much, or if, they were paid). This is the kind of event the ultra wealthy plan a vacation around. Again, barf inducing. What I find really funny is how similar this feels to ‘The Menu’ which is streaming on HBO. Ralph Fiennes plays a version of Redzepi at a hyper exclusive restaurant on a private island. Fiennes’ character has a very specific menu planned for his group of guests and throughout the evening - as the menu progresses - he muses about how the continually rising expectations of customers and Instagram-foodie culture has robbed whatever joy he once had for cooking. The work is so meticulous and ornate it’s nearly unbearable to watch (the breadless bread course is wonderfully on point). Of course, it spirals from there and is actually quite enjoyable (Anya Taylor-Joy also stars) but it’s spot on with its criticism of elite food culture and its consumption.
I guess if you want to eat at Noma I’d get moving - I hear they have thousands of reservation requests a day. Which begs the question, if you can’t sustain a restaurant (paying for labor) at $500 a person - WTF is going on?
Noma Is Closing, But Fine Dining Was Already In Trouble
The closure of the world's best restaurant only underlines the fact that fine dining is a sinking ship.
thetakeout.com