Glacier and other parks question

[hdogg]

So, how are the crowds at parks this summer? I'm making a big trip next year with the family, gonna do Utah, Yellowstone, and I booked the Many Glacier Lodge from July 1-4. Yes, it does fill up a year in advance.

I'm curious about everyone's experience this year, if the crowds are too much or if it's still enjoyable.
Also Joe Lee, I see that Going to the Sun road is still closed. Was it a crazy snow year? I'll hate to miss it next year if it's this late again.

 

[PooPopsBaldHead]

It officially opened at 6:00am this morning.At 6:30 pm last night, the concierge at Lake McDonald Lodge (nice alternative to Many Glacier lodge) still didn't know if it would open today. Latest opening in history. Up right now waiting to jump on tickets at 8:00 am MDT. Lots of late snow and heavy rains this season. 3rd straight la Nina.

Honestly, there's plenty of other stuff to do. I would rather take my chances in early July than wait on August and the possibility of smoke ruining the views.

Crowds aren't terrible TBH. I figure some folks cancelled because of GTTSR closure. We decided to extend our trip at the RV park by a few days (vs booondocking) and I was able to get Friday and Saturday reservations at West Glacier RV Park yesterday. Last summer that would not have been possible.

You should be fine in Glacier. Was in Bozeman father's day weekend when the flooding shut down Yellowstone. Based on the number of people who bumrushed Bozeman, Yellowstone is still packed. Did Moab/Canyonlands/Arches for Spring Break and it was wildly packed.

 

[woozman]

My son and I did a trip in late May and early June and hit Badlands, Wind Cave, Yellowstone, Teton, Capitol Reef, Bryce, Zion, Grand Canyon, and Petrified Forrest. Yellowstone and Zion were by far the most crowded. We came into the NE Yellowstone entrance and it was less crowded. We also came into the scenic drive entrance to Zion (the drive from the east) and it was awesome and not very crowded. However, we exited through the main entrance at Zion and the line of cars waiting was crazy long and there was zero parking at the visitor center at 9:00 am. Pro tip: go to Capitol Reef - highly, highly underrated and WAY less people…

 

[fieldcorporal]

Don't miss Bryce's Canyon.

Also, may be too late, but we really really enjoyed staying right on GTTSR at Rising Sun. A bit "rustic", but really convenient. Once we were in we didn't leave/return until after 1800 every day. We rode shuttles around GTTSR. It was really an accident that worked out fantastically. We originally had Many Glacier reservations in 2020, but Covid, then we couldn't get them so booked Rising Sun instead.

On the other hand, the area around Many Glacier is beyond belief. We had to drive a long way over bad road to get there the 2 days we went there.

 

[Bill Shankly]

I was in Yellowstone last August, the busiest August they had ever had. I honestly didn't think it was that bad. It was crowded in spots, but not Disney World crowded. My tips: Stay in the park if at all possible. Get out early and stay out late. I was out daylight till dark. Do the popular stuff before 9am and after 6pm. Even the popular stuff isn't that crowded at peak times if you get a few hundred yards from the parking lots. See the less popular stuff between those two times. There is a ton of it and it's just as good as the "must see" spots. Pack in your own food and don't waste time eating at the restaurants. I ate breakfast while driving to my first spot of the day. I just found a good spot to pull over and had lunch in some of the most spectacular scenery you can imagine. It beat the heck out of any restaurant for ambiance (but not the food, lol). I ate dinner after I got back to my cabin while planning my next day. The cabin was basically only used for sleeping. Why in the world would you want to be inside in YELLOWSTONE? Don't let tales of the crowds stop you. Now if you insist on sleeping in, going to Old Faithful, Canyon, Norris , and the like during the middle of the day, and eating every meal at a restaurant, you are going to be in some big crowds.

The only time I was in a crowd during peak time was at the Grand Prismatic Spring overlook. That was deliberate. If you want to get THE picture of that place you have to be there in the middle of the day.

 

[Car Ramrod.sixpack]

I was up in Glacier mid June and it wasn't crazy busy but the GTTSR was not open yet. It snowed over two feet in the high elevations when were there. Everyone up there made the same comment that spring was running a month late this year. The flooding canceled a lot of our planed activities such as hiking, fly fishing and horseback riding.

If I had one thing to pass along is pay attention to the Going to the Sun Road reservation system. Make getting that pass your priority because without it you can be SOL of a lot of things in the park. If you can't get a reservation book an activity (boat tour or horseback ride) in the park and you will automatically have a pass for the day.

 

[fieldcorporal]

If I had one thing to pass along is pay attention to the Going to the Sun Road reservation system. Make getting that pass your priority because without it you can be SOL of a lot of things in the park. If you can't get a reservation book an activity (boat tour or horseback ride) in the park and you will automatically have a pass for the day.

This is why we liked staying at Rising Sun. We were in the park. If we wanted to drive we got in the car and went, or waited on a shuttle. It seems like we had to go to the east entrance to get a pass 2 days in advance to ride the shuttles around (get it monday to ride wednesday), about 3 mile drive (I think, anyway, not far) from Rising Sun, and never a problem.

Things may have changed, we were there in Sept 2021. It was fantastic.

 

[WYDawg]

I am living in Cody Wyoming for the summer. Between the flood last month and gas prices there’s no crowd this year in Yellowstone. 90% of the park is open so plenty to see and do. Been twice since it reopened and not crowded either time. 3 entrances open but N and NE are closed and will be for the rest of the season. As of now no entry into Lamar Valley. Give you an update as we are going again tomorrow.

 

[dawglurker]

I am living in Cody Wyoming for the summer. Between the flood last month and gas prices there’s no crowd this year in Yellowstone. 90% of the park is open so plenty to see and do. Been twice since it reopened and not crowded either time. 3 entrances open but N and NE are closed and will be for the rest of the season. As of now no entry into Lamar Valley. Give you an update as we are going again tomorrow.

Is Lamar Valley completely closed off? Can you access it coming north from Tower Fall? Driving up Friday for a few days in the park.

 

[Emma’s Dad]

Just across the Canadian border north of Glacier is Waterton Lakes Nat Park. Not as crowded as Glacier and hiking is epic. I recommend…

 

[hdogg]

Thanks everyone.
Wife and I did a big trip 15 years ago, and were in Glacier when we found out she was pregnant w our daughter. So I'm really excited to get back next year. Sounds like crowds may be manageable.
We mostly camped 15 years ago, but wife's hip issues will limit that now, so am stuck booking lodging a year in advance. Many glacier sold out overnight July 1... I was online at 2am to book ours.... ouch.

Good tip on Capitol Reef, I had forgotten about that one. Bryce is for sure on the list. We did moab,arches, canyonland in 2020 so not doing those this time.

I'll cross my fingers on GTTSR opening by July 2 next year.

Yellowstone is next on my list to plan.
Does anyone have good rafting day trips between Yellowstone and glacier???

 

[PooPopsBaldHead]

Does anyone have good rafting day trips between Yellowstone and glacier???

Actually doing the Middle Fork of the Flathead through Glacier on Saturday. I'll let you know, but it's supposed to be epic. Tried to hit the Gallatin near big sky back in June. Water was crazy high from the flooding so it was intense and cold and they wouldn't let my youngest on at the time. The Yellowstone north of the park near Gardiner is supposed to be great as well.

All three of those are pretty muchalong the way to Many Glacier from Yellowstone. I have a neighbor from Missoula who says they have killer rafting as well on the Clark Fork and Blackfoot, but it's a bit out of the way.

 

[ZombieKissinger]

We missed out on tickets this year, but it’s easy to get in at 4:15 or so after they stop requiring tickets. Kind of late but still good light. Wish GTTSR had been open

 

[PooPopsBaldHead]

We figured it would not open while we were here and planned around it. Honestly I am not sure you even need the tickets if you come in mid summer. It's not getting dark until 9-9:30 right now. So that's 5 hours of daylight.

They announced official opening yesterday and we decided to try the online ticket drop at recreation.gov for Thursday - Sat tickets and I logged on 5 minutes before the drop at 8:00am and noticed same day tickets were available. Ended up snagging Wednesday - Friday GTTSR tickets. Rained all day yesterday, so we tooled around at all lower elevations on hikes in the woods and only meandered from West Glacier to Logan Pass. We had been going in after 4 already and seen everything up to Avalanche Creek (where it has been open to until yesterday) already.

Cutting out today for Two Medicine hikes and boat tour which will wrap at 5pm then we are coming back west on GTTSR. Tickets won't be needed. Right now I am going to shoot for North Fork tickets tomorrow, if I get them we are heading up there for the day, which means I honestly will not have needed the GTTSR tickets at all.

So I encourage anyone to come out and not sweat the tickets if you don't get them.

Also... I need to know which one of you cheap 17ers flew all the way to Montana and rented a long wheel based single cab U-Haul pickup for $20 a day to drive up and down Going To the Sun Road?

View attachment 24712

ETA... Of all the crazy **** I have seen I am not sure anything compares to the idiot rollerblading down Going to The Sun Road from Logan Pass towards West Glacier yesterday. If that was you glfr... Mad respect, that's some Evil Knievel ****.

 

[Brad Stevens.sixpack]

We went last year. Only there for 4 full days. But in my limited experience, Many Glacier was easily the most breathtaking and enjoyable to hike. We didn’t get to stay there, but if that’s where y’all are staying, that’s a huge bonus. Everything else is gravy.

 

[Bill Shankly]

Is Lamar Valley completely closed off? Can you access it coming north from Tower Fall? Driving up Friday for a few days in the park.

You can check the park service Yellowstone website. They have a map that shows what roads are open and which ones aren't. As of yesterday the Lamar Valley beyond Roosevelt was closed.

 

[NtzReb]

I went with my family (wife and two kids age 9 and 6 then) last summer to Glacier and stayed at Many Glacier. Definitely do the Grennell Glacier hike. Take the boat ride that shortens it. It's still a tough 7+ mile hike, but you end up at a glacier. It's amazing. I actually got in the glacier water. Yeah. It was really cold. My wife downloaded a National Parks app that had really helpful and informative talks on the history and the sites. There's one for most of the area around Going to The Sun Road. It links to your GPS and tells you about places to pull off, attractions, etc when you get close to them. I can't remember the name of the hike, but if you're going, you probably have it on your list - the hike to a lake overlook at the top of Going to the Sun Road - get there as early as you can. the parking lot fills up fast. We saw the big horned sheep, mountain goats, and a bear there pretty close up.

 

[Shmuley]

It's called Hidden Lake trail at Logan Pass.

 

[fieldcorporal]

It's called Hidden Lake trail at Logan Pass.

The overlook is a good place to eat lunch or mid-morning snack. You can walk on down to the lake from the overlook, it's probably 10 miles straight down, or at least 1 mile of pretty steep slope. A fantastic place. Ride the shuttle to Logan Pass and avoid the parking problem.

 

[WYDawg]

Is Lamar Valley completely closed off? Can you access it coming north from Tower Fall? Driving up Friday for a few days in the park.

Closed as of today. Lots of wolf sightings North of Dunraven Pass.

 

[MeridianDog]

Try to work in Monument valley and then do Valley of the Gods. Monument Valley is on Reservation land, and Valley of the Gods is just about as good, on BLM Land. If you like, you can camp on BLM land, as long as you get 10 yatds off the road.

 

[Bill Shankly]

Try to work in Monument valley and then do Valley of the Gods. Monument Valley is on Reservation land, and Valley of the Gods is just about as good, on BLM Land. If you like, you can camp on BLM land, as long as you get 10 yatds off the road.

I was at Monument Valley back in May.....INCREDIBLE. If it wasn't on tribal land it would be a National Park for sure.

 

[MeridianDog]

Such a good trip for us, too.View attachment 24719 View attachment 24720 View attachment 24721

Last shot is Forest Gump Hghway, between Monument valley and Valley of the Gods

 

[ZombieKissinger]

I think the Jackson airport is also closed this summer which probably is a lot of it

 

[hdogg]

Great idea! I always miss this one, will do it next year for sure.