OT: Black Hills area

PrtLng Lion

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Oct 14, 2021
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
 
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VicVaselino

Active member
Oct 12, 2021
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
Take a drive up to Deadwood.
 

DELion

Active member
Oct 21, 2021
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
That's a good list of places to hit. I don't have specific recommendations. I did a 24 hour race (off-trail) in Custer State Park about 15 years ago - it is a fantastic place with lots of hiking options. If you hike there, do a little research on the wildlife first - know how to act around buffalo, be aware that there are prairie rattlesnakes, etc.
 
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WDLion

Active member
Oct 12, 2021
299
481
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
Motorcycle Museum in Sturgis if interested in things like that. Lots to see.
 
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JohnH

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2021
1,254
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
Our family lives in Minn, and we've been exactly to what you're planning several times. I can post photos if you like. Rapid City is great. It a fantastic place - give yourself enough days. We've done everything you listed and more. How old are the kid(s)/son - that will matter per hikes.

But key WHEN are you going? Weather will matter, if before end of May. Things you listed can each take at least a half-day. So plan accordingly. Sundance, Hot Springs, Custer, Hill City all have nice places to chillax and eat. When me and my 3 boys did Harney's Peak (bucket list do), my wife and her mom/etc just hung out I think at Hill City and drank G & Ts with appetizers.

**If the weather hits you and it's just raining cats and dogs, aside from getting lost w/ tourists at Deadwood, in your backpocket there is also Jewel Cave or Wind Cave. They are both really cool experiences, where the rain doesn't matter. Book tickets in advance. Setting rain aside:

Day 1: Gotta do Badlands. No brainer. We found it best to enter on the eastern entry, Cactus Flat (where the ICBM museum is) the work the half-loop (called route 240) westward. Best time to go is either sunrise (can't practically unless camping) best you gotta be there for sunset. That's when the light hits the right way and the colors really come through. That's like "ok, so this is where we came west in the first place." So, do a morning different thing, then afternoon/evening Badlands, then back to RC to eat. (See below on Wall Drug, which tourists either love or hate - we're the latter....)

Entering on the east, I think we stopped briefly at the first overlook, on one's left. Then up the road a tad, I recall we walked Door Trail. That's cool. Then back, and kept driving back westward on the loop. There a hundered places to stop, if you want. KEy was timing: when sun set, we were at about Dillon Pass or The Pinnacles, right near the western entry/exit. Just time it for sunset, bring good camera!

En route from RC for morning/noon? Don't know if it's up your alley, an overlooked gem is Ellsworth Air Force Base's museum. It's free, and if your kids are into big jets etc., you'll love it. This was like 5-6 years ago, B-52s, B-1s, and so much more. Some places are time-traps: once you're in, you're stuck for hours. Not Ellsworth. If you want to hang there for 30 minutes, cool. Two hours, will be fine. Raining - works too, as there's a lot inside. All free; no hassle (back then). Google the museum, easy hit as you are driving east anyway to badlands. If you really want, there's also old ICBM sites off the interstate as you leave Ellsworth to the northern rim entry/Badlands. So yes, there's a intercontinental ballistic missile museum to see. You can dream about nuking Putin, in a missile silo.

Day 2: Do Mt Rushmore/Needles/Custer. See below on avoiding Crazy Horse. I think when we did Mt Rushmore, we matched it with the Needles Highway and overlooks. Do that - it's cool. You're driving it. Lots of overlooks, photo places, and tunnels carved into the mtns. (again, time of year enters here for spring vs long winter). Cathedral Spires has a hike to consider, but even it you don't want to do it, you can park and see the awesome views. It's on the Needles scenic drive. I think we did the drive first, then Rushmore. But you could do either sequence.

Late afternoon/evening. You can do Custer, and try to catch sight of a buffalo heard. The donkey's will come to you. It's all driving, unless you intentionally want to park and walk. We drove it. If you do Rushmore first, the do the Needles from west to eastk, you can finish Needles around Custer, and go through it by car. Custer really is a place to camp or to stay at the lodge there. If not, you can see what you want by the drive. If you want a doable hike, the Lovers Leap Trail is a 3 mile ascent, lots of flowers, pretty popular. But it's there if you want. Again, we basically have just driven the park, based from Rapid City.

Day 3 Harney Peak, now Black Elk Peak. (Harney was a general, anti-Indian). Your exercise day. It is the highest place in the north America between the Rockies & the Pyrenees Mountains in Spain. We did it in 2.5-3 hrs roundtrip. Must do - you just can't see this even in VA's Skyline, the Appal. in Tenn/Ga.

Where your going to, is that little cropping of rock on the leftmost side of all that granite. There's shelter there, and the photos are absolute "life bucket list".

1645901882083.png

Day 4: Devils Tower and Spearfish. That's a bit of a drive, there and back. You can stop for gas, etc at Sundance. Watch out if yhou overlap with the national motorcycle rally at Sturgis. We stopped at Spearfish canyon and drove through it. There's a couple of places in the canyon drive to do walks, get photos. Th Tower is cool. About an hour of time actually there, as you walk the path around it. You'll see the free climbers scaling the top, or sitting on it. You can whistle the theme and wait for the spaceships too arrive...... Either en route, or on way back, you can stop off at the last key spot, Deadwood. See below on guidance.

1645902502215.png


AVOID: tourist traps of Wall Drug. You'll see signs 400 miles away. It's opposite side of interstate points for the South Dakota Badlands (N Dak Badlands cool too.) If you must, like bathroom break, then ok. (Or pie and coffee.) But just be aware, it's a vast SD tourist trap. Avoid Crazy Horse. It's a privately run con, and long-line plus big cost to get in. Spend more time at Rushmore, which you can do all day almost. Great facilities, incl. cafeteria. There is short walk up to the mtn base, or you can try longer hikes u that go up the big hill. We only did the base, which is fine. The museum is cool, at the base. Many SD towns live off of cheap gambling. It's everywhere. So be on guard for that. Still, Deadwood has some things to see - the cemetery on the top of the canyon has Calamity Jane, Will Bill, and others buried there. If you have a car/van, it's steep, but you can drive it - regular paved roads. The view from up there, down into the Deadwood canyon, it's something.
 
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PrtLng Lion

Well-known member
Oct 14, 2021
955
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Our family lives in Minn, and we've been exactly to what you're planning several times. I can post photos if you like. Rapid City is great. It a fantastic place - give yourself enough days. We've done everything you listed and more. How old are the kid(s)/son - that will matter per hikes.

But key WHEN are you going? Weather will matter, if before end of May. Things you listed can each take at least a half-day. So plan accordingly. Sundance, Hot Springs, Custer, Hill City all have nice places to chillax and eat. When me and my 3 boys did Harney's Peak (bucket list do), my wife and her mom/etc just hung out I think at Hill City and drank G & Ts with appetizers.

**If the weather hits you and it's just raining cats and dogs, aside from getting lost w/ tourists at Deadwood, in your backpocket there is also Jewel Cave or Wind Cave. They are both really cool experiences, where the rain doesn't matter. Book tickets in advance. Setting rain aside:

Day 1: Gotta do Badlands. No brainer. We found it best to enter on the eastern entry, Cactus Flat (where the ICBM museum is) the work the half-loop (called route 240) westward. Best time to go is either sunrise (can't practically unless camping) best you gotta be there for sunset. That's when the light hits the right way and the colors really come through. That's like "ok, so this is where we came west in the first place." So, do a morning different thing, then afternoon/evening Badlands, then back to RC to eat. (See below on Wall Drug, which tourists either love or hate - we're the latter....)

Entering on the east, I think we stopped briefly at the first overlook, on one's left. Then up the road a tad, I recall we walked Door Trail. That's cool. Then back, and kept driving back westward on the loop. There a hundered places to stop, if you want. KEy was timing: when sun set, we were at about Dillon Pass or The Pinnacles, right near the western entry/exit. Just time it for sunset, bring good camera!

En route from RC for morning/noon? Don't know if it's up your alley, an overlooked gem is Ellsworth Air Force Base's museum. It's free, and if your kids are into big jets etc., you'll love it. This was like 5-6 years ago, B-52s, B-1s, and so much more. Some places are time-traps: once you're in, you're stuck for hours. Not Ellsworth. If you want to hang there for 30 minutes, cool. Two hours, will be fine. Raining - works too, as there's a lot inside. All free; no hassle (back then). Google the museum, easy hit as you are driving east anyway to badlands. If you really want, there's also old ICBM sites off the interstate as you leave Ellsworth to the northern rim entry/Badlands. So yes, there's a intercontinental ballistic missile museum to see. You can dream about nuking Putin, in a missile silo.

Day 2: Do Mt Rushmore/Needles/Custer. See below on avoiding Crazy Horse. I think when we did Mt Rushmore, we matched it with the Needles Highway and overlooks. Do that - it's cool. You're driving it. Lots of overlooks, photo places, and tunnels carved into the mtns. (again, time of year enters here for spring vs long winter). Cathedral Spires has a hike to consider, but even it you don't want to do it, you can park and see the awesome views. It's on the Needles scenic drive. I think we did the drive first, then Rushmore. But you could do either sequence.

Late afternoon/evening. You can do Custer, and try to catch sight of a buffalo heard. The donkey's will come to you. It's all driving, unless you intentionally want to park and walk. We drove it. If you do Rushmore first, the do the Needles from west to eastk, you can finish Needles around Custer, and go through it by car. Custer really is a place to camp or to stay at the lodge there. If not, you can see what you want by the drive. If you want a doable hike, the Lovers Leap Trail is a 3 mile ascent, lots of flowers, pretty popular. But it's there if you want. Again, we basically have just driven the park, based from Rapid City.

Day 3 Harney Peak, now Black Elk Peak. (Harney was a general, anti-Indian). Your exercise day. It is the highest place in the north America between the Rockies & the Pyrenees Mountains in Spain. We did it in 2.5-3 hrs roundtrip. Must do - you just can't see this even in VA's Skyline, the Appal. in Tenn/Ga.

Where your going to, is that little cropping of rock on the leftmost side of all that granite. There's shelter there, and the photos are absolute "life bucket list".

View attachment 184696

Day 4: Devils Tower and Spearfish. That's a bit of a drive, there and back. You can stop for gas, etc at Sundance. Watch out if yhou overlap with the national motorcycle rally at Sturgis. We stopped at Spearfish canyon and drove through it. There's a couple of places in the canyon drive to do walks, get photos. Th Tower is cool. About an hour of time actually there, as you walk the path around it. You'll see the free climbers scaling the top, or sitting on it. You can whistle the theme and wait for the spaceships too arrive...... Either en route, or on way back, you can stop off at the last key spot, Deadwood. See below on guidance.

View attachment 184700


AVOID: tourist traps of Wall Drug. You'll see signs 400 miles away. It opposite the South Dakota Badlands (N Dak Badlands cool too.) If you must, like bathroom break, then ok. But just be aware, it's a vast SD tourist trap. Avoid Crazy Horse. It's a privately run con, and long-line plus big cost to get in. Spend more time at Rushmore, which you can do all day almost. Great facilities, incl. cafeteria. There is short walk up to the mtn base, or you can try longer hikes u that go up the big hill. We only did the base, which is fine. The museum is cool, at the base. Many SD towns live off of cheap gambling. It's everywhere. So be on guard for that. Still, Deadwood has some things to see - the cemetery on the top of the canyon has Calamity Jane, Will Bill, and others buried there. If you have a car/van, it's steep, but you can drive it - regular paved roads. The view from up there, down into the Deadwood canyon, it something.
JohnH-

Awesome stuff, thanks a bunch for all these details and pictures. Yes, please post more pics.

My son is 20, we're going up next Fri (3/4) and coming back Wed 3/9. Unfortunately only 4 full days there, so we intend to pack in as much as we can. I know it'll be cold (weather.com says high in the mid-30's) but coming from south Florida we're excited for some cooler weather and hiking.

I've read a number of things about Black Elk Peak, will definitely be hiking that one. We are very excited about Badlands, has been on our bucket list for awhile. So you're saying take 90E to the eastern side of Rt 240? Is the sunset better on the western side? I know Notch Trail is over by the east side, and we definitely want to do that while there. Have you been to the Prairie Dog Town? Is it worth the stop? What about Sage Creek and Deer Haven? I heard there are some long trails at these two sites. How's cell phone coverage there? AT&T coverage map shows good coverage in the park but not sure whether to believe it. We want to FaceTime some family while we're there.

What about Bear Butte? Looks like some good hiking and views on the way along the drive up to Devils Tower.

We wanted to take ATV's around the Black Hills but none of the places seem to rent them or offer tours till May.
 

JohnH

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2021
1,254
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
Looking at my phone saved pics. When I mean must do, for Harney Peak, it's probably the no 1 thing, in truth. When you reach the summit shelter, your son will love this view. (yes, even if June-July, a sweatshirt is needed)

1645912756684.png

1645912451895.png
 
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JohnH

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2021
1,254
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JohnH-

Awesome stuff, thanks a bunch for all these details and pictures. Yes, please post more pics.

My son is 20, we're going up next Fri (3/4) and coming back Wed 3/9. Unfortunately only 4 full days there, so we intend to pack in as much as we can. I know it'll be cold (weather.com says high in the mid-30's) but coming from south Florida we're excited for some cooler weather and hiking.

I've read a number of things about Black Elk Peak, will definitely be hiking that one. We are very excited about Badlands, has been on our bucket list for awhile. So you're saying take 90E to the eastern side of Rt 240? Is the sunset better on the western side? I know Notch Trail is over by the east side, and we definitely want to do that while there. Have you been to the Prairie Dog Town? Is it worth the stop? What about Sage Creek and Deer Haven? I heard there are some long trails at these two sites. How's cell phone coverage there? AT&T coverage map shows good coverage in the park but not sure whether to believe it. We want to FaceTime some family while we're there.

What about Bear Butte? Looks like some good hiking and views on the way along the drive up to Devils Tower.

We wanted to take ATV's around the Black Hills but none of the places seem to rent them or offer tours till May.
Ok, Black Elk is Harney. Damn. Early March is too early. In truth, it may not be open. If you do go, gear up: gloves, thick good quality winter boots, thermals, good hat over ears. Even then, Harney/Black Elk...don't know....Not mid-30s, but more like 10 below with wind chill. Do the Needles, assuming the road's open, and it ought to be. But drive careful as most of the road is single-lane. Custer is easier. All this assumes no snow closures. You won't have crowds to fight! I would assume Devils is open, but the road from the guard station/park entrance is long, and also w/ windy one-ways too. In shade, so no melts. So warning for that too.

Yeah, it's better to enter on the east, head west w/ sunset. Just logistics and such. When folks camp there, they have favorite places to see for dawn/sunset. Those western spots were good for sunset, assuming it's not cloudy of course. Here's a photo of the eastern parts - note how arid.

1645913343067.png


So sunset, from I recall the last stop, before exiting western entry to interstate. Not best pic, but give you a sense....The 2 boys are my youngest two of three.


1645913570786.png
 

JohnH

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Nov 8, 2021
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
Two last phots of top of Harney, at the shelter, in late June w/ my 3 sons. Like 7 years ago I think or more. Note our gear, in June. The winds hits you when you make that last climb up the final turn to the staircase. (There are several.) But you u get a sense of what it's like at 7,3000 feet.... If you do you, go in the morning, and with good weather - esp. for safety and pictures.

1645995112611.png


1645995150182.png
 

JohnH

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2021
1,254
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
Badlands too. SOme might wonder if there is a difference, ND vs SD badlands. They are both great national parks - out of the way of course for folks from east. But a lot less busy than the big ones in Mountain West region. We did Yellowstone a few years ago, and stopped off at ND Badlands on the way for pics. Same time of year. Note how arid the SD park is - bone dry, vs the North Dakota counterpart.

1645995324486.png
 
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SkiLion2

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Oct 29, 2021
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
I think a couple of people have mentioned this but avoid Wall Drug!
There are two massive caves (actually may be 1 cave) in the area - Jewell and Wind cave both are pretty cool. If you are looking to hike there are hikes from spots in Custer State Park that go to Mt. Rushmore, any hiking in Custer is pretty great but if you want to hike to Rushmore you can do it and avoid the fee for parking (there is no fee to enter Rushmore and therefore NP passes do not work there - the fee is for parking).
In Custer there is a place called Black Hills Burger and Bun Co. really great burgers - they do not take reservations and are open for lunch then closed and then open for dinner. It may be very easy to get a table based on your travel times (much more difficult in the summer).
 
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JohnH

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I think a couple of people have mentioned this but avoid Wall Drug!
There are two massive caves (actually may be 1 cave) in the area - Jewell and Wind cave both are pretty cool. If you are looking to hike there are hikes from spots in Custer State Park that go to Mt. Rushmore, any hiking in Custer is pretty great but if you want to hike to Rushmore you can do it and avoid the fee for parking (there is no fee to enter Rushmore and therefore NP passes do not work there - the fee is for parking).
In Custer there is a place called Black Hills Burger and Bun Co. really great burgers - they do not take reservations and are open for lunch then closed and then open for dinner. It may be very easy to get a table based on your travel times (much more difficult in the summer).
Oh, yeah. You HAVE to have a buffalo burger! Unless you're veggies, get some buff in you. Google if you must to see who has them. You'll also perhaps come across a fair number of antelope (pronghorn), unless it's still to cold for them to be about.
 
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Oct 31, 2021
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.
If you go through Hill City, SD I recommend the Alpine Inn. Was there about fifteen or twenty years ago and just happened to stumble upon it for lunch. The meat and cheese board was about five or six bucks which gives you an idea of how long ago it was but it was a hell of a deal. The state park also had a lodge with a decent place for dinner. I had pheasant.

 
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TheGlovStillRules

Well-known member
Oct 14, 2021
1,137
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My son and I are going to SD during his spring break starting next weekend. Will be staying in Rapid City then doing day trips to see:
  • Badlands National Park
  • Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon
  • Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse
  • Custer State park, Wildlife loop road
  • HIKING... main goal
Have recommendations for moderate-to-strenuous hikes (specific locations/trails) in the Black Hills area? (Not rock climbing... I'm not that brave).

Also recommendations for good food places in Rapid City or nearby? Or other "must-do" things/sites?

Thanks in advance.

Enjoy!
 
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olelion

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Oct 31, 2021
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I agree with all the sites listed. Having lived in Gillette, Wyo. for 7 years we'd always take our visitors to those sites plus one more. If you want to see some big machinery go visit wone of the coal mines south of Gillette. Seeing a 68 ft. coal seam mined with gargantuan machinery is very interesting. All of our visitors loved it.
 

JohnH

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Nov 8, 2021
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JohnH-

Awesome stuff, thanks a bunch for all these details and pictures. Yes, please post more pics.

My son is 20, we're going up next Fri (3/4) and coming back Wed 3/9. Unfortunately only 4 full days there, so we intend to pack in as much as we can. I know it'll be cold (weather.com says high in the mid-30's) but coming from south Florida we're excited for some cooler weather and hiking.

I've read a number of things about Black Elk Peak, will definitely be hiking that one. We are very excited about Badlands, has been on our bucket list for awhile. So you're saying take 90E to the eastern side of Rt 240? Is the sunset better on the western side? I know Notch Trail is over by the east side, and we definitely want to do that while there. Have you been to the Prairie Dog Town? Is it worth the stop? What about Sage Creek and Deer Haven? I heard there are some long trails at these two sites. How's cell phone coverage there? AT&T coverage map shows good coverage in the park but not sure whether to believe it. We want to FaceTime some family while we're there.

What about Bear Butte? Looks like some good hiking and views on the way along the drive up to Devils Tower.

We wanted to take ATV's around the Black Hills but none of the places seem to rent them or offer tours till May.
Good luck again for your weather. Some final, final thoughts. Don't forget, Mountain West time (until you get about middle of So-Dak then central). So it'll get dark at a different time than Florida.

When u get back, BWIers will want photos!

When you plan Badlands - I hope you get a clear later afternoon to catch the sunset. When you enter, assuming its open, they'll tell you what trails are open or not. Have an idea which one's you want to do, matched up w/ what's open as you find out. Like, Door and the Notch Trails are fun and short experiences (like a few minutes if you want), which will offer good photos. So stop at Door, then Notch, the Window, and so on. Right after Notch, if the Cliff Shelf Trail - it has a great overlook, so don't ignore that one. Do as many as you want, knowing your timing to be at the western final quarter of the drive if the sun's out.....If you want something much longer, you can do the Castle Trail - but it really is a cross-park connector, so if you start on it, and you don't have a second car at the terminus (Fossil spot) you're kind of heading in one direction, then having to stop, turn around, and walk the same way back. And again, yeah, I definitely would run it east to west.

Phone coverage? It's the Badlands! Civilization is left behind (or Wall Drug...) That's kind of why I'd avoid the unmarked hiking areas, esp. if this is all new, and the weather is tough winter, and you may not have a compass, etc.

I don't think we detoured to Sage Creek. Same with Deer Haven - it's just flat old grassland without (back then) marked trails. Sage/Deer H. mostly used I think as a campground. To access it, you have to drive an unpaved road, and there's no facilities. So, as per time of year, honestly, I'm not sure it's worth it. If it was May onward, and the flowers were out, etc. then maybe. But again, it's going to be COLD, grey, winter..... I'd focus again on the many shorter ones that have great photos - Saddle Pass and the Pinnacles Overlook definitely.

Prairie Dog Town. You'll see prairie dogs everywhere in the Badlands, but sure. It's off the Rim Road. It's a drive-stop-exit-see-photo-drive away place. With luck you'll see the Big Horn Sheep there. So see at sunset, near the Pinnacles, western part of the badlands. So many pronghorn that I don't think I kept photos (ditto p. dogs)

1646324465495.png


Bear Butte - frankly I don't know if it's really worth it. (When you do Harney, you're at near 7,400 ft elevation - I think the sumit of Bear is 4,400. So if you want majestic views for 50 miles.....) The drive through Spearfish, along with stops, will take time. Plus lunch (at Sturgis or Sundance), plus Devils Tower with the time before sunset too. (I'd want to leave also before it gets completely dark, per the weather and the access road). So that's like a full day right there. Hiking it will absorb much of your day, and since it's not anywhere near to the views of all these other places that you're flying in to see - I mean, photos on the internet will show you what you'd see. PLus, it's early march WAY before flowers and fresh grass etc emerge. So it'll be covered in snow, ice. Not very pretty....whereas D. Tower is awesome under any conditions. When you do DT, aside from the circumference trail, you can always do other walk to get other angles - there's a pretty extensive network of hiking around the tower.

Watch the wild burros at Custer. When you enter Custer, the burros are everywhere. Over the many years, tourists feed them - stupidly - from the cars. Like as if they never saw a horse, mule or donkey before. It's something of a pain, because they'll put their snouts right up/through your car window (if lowered). So be aware. See if you can find the 1,000+ buffalo heard at Custer - if it's not on the website, a park ranger at the entrance may have daily info onwhere the heard is. That's worth seeing and photos.

1646324834273.png


We came individual buffalo a lot. They do take off as individuals to eat. Not very friendly...but after all, not the smartest of God's creatures....

1646325030765.png
 

PrtLng Lion

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I agree with all the sites listed. Having lived in Gillette, Wyo. for 7 years we'd always take our visitors to those sites plus one more. If you want to see some big machinery go visit wone of the coal mines south of Gillette. Seeing a 68 ft. coal seam mined with gargantuan machinery is very interesting. All of our visitors loved it.
Sounds cool, would like to get over there to see that. Looks like about an hour west of Devils Tower. Hopefully Route 90 is clear of any significant snow accumulation.
 
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PrtLng Lion

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Good luck again for your weather. Some final, final thoughts. Don't forget, Mountain West time (until you get about middle of So-Dak then central). So it'll get dark at a different time than Florida.

When u get back, BWIers will want photos!

When you plan Badlands - I hope you get a clear later afternoon to catch the sunset. When you enter, assuming its open, they'll tell you what trails are open or not. Have an idea which one's you want to do, matched up w/ what's open as you find out. Like, Door and the Notch Trails are fun and short experiences (like a few minutes if you want), which will offer good photos. So stop at Door, then Notch, the Window, and so on. Right after Notch, if the Cliff Shelf Trail - it has a great overlook, so don't ignore that one. Do as many as you want, knowing your timing to be at the western final quarter of the drive if the sun's out.....If you want something much longer, you can do the Castle Trail - but it really is a cross-park connector, so if you start on it, and you don't have a second car at the terminus (Fossil spot) you're kind of heading in one direction, then having to stop, turn around, and walk the same way back. And again, yeah, I definitely would run it east to west.

Phone coverage? It's the Badlands! Civilization is left behind (or Wall Drug...) That's kind of why I'd avoid the unmarked hiking areas, esp. if this is all new, and the weather is tough winter, and you may not have a compass, etc.

I don't think we detoured to Sage Creek. Same with Deer Haven - it's just flat old grassland without (back then) marked trails. Sage/Deer H. mostly used I think as a campground. To access it, you have to drive an unpaved road, and there's no facilities. So, as per time of year, honestly, I'm not sure it's worth it. If it was May onward, and the flowers were out, etc. then maybe. But again, it's going to be COLD, grey, winter..... I'd focus again on the many shorter ones that have great photos - Saddle Pass and the Pinnacles Overlook definitely.

Prairie Dog Town. You'll see prairie dogs everywhere in the Badlands, but sure. It's off the Rim Road. It's a drive-stop-exit-see-photo-drive away place. With luck you'll see the Big Horn Sheep there. So see at sunset, near the Pinnacles, western part of the badlands. So many pronghorn that I don't think I kept photos (ditto p. dogs)

View attachment 185439


Bear Butte - frankly I don't know if it's really worth it. (When you do Harney, you're at near 7,400 ft elevation - I think the sumit of Bear is 4,400. So if you want majestic views for 50 miles.....) The drive through Spearfish, along with stops, will take time. Plus lunch (at Sturgis or Sundance), plus Devils Tower with the time before sunset too. (I'd want to leave also before it gets completely dark, per the weather and the access road). So that's like a full day right there. Hiking it will absorb much of your day, and since it's not anywhere near to the views of all these other places that you're flying in to see - I mean, photos on the internet will show you what you'd see. PLus, it's early march WAY before flowers and fresh grass etc emerge. So it'll be covered in snow, ice. Not very pretty....whereas D. Tower is awesome under any conditions. When you do DT, aside from the circumference trail, you can always do other walk to get other angles - there's a pretty extensive network of hiking around the tower.

Watch the wild burros at Custer. When you enter Custer, the burros are everywhere. Over the many years, tourists feed them - stupidly - from the cars. Like as if they never saw a horse, mule or donkey before. It's something of a pain, because they'll put their snouts right up/through your car window (if lowered). So be aware. See if you can find the 1,000+ buffalo heard at Custer - if it's not on the website, a park ranger at the entrance may have daily info onwhere the heard is. That's worth seeing and photos.

View attachment 185440


We came individual buffalo a lot. They do take off as individuals to eat. Not very friendly...but after all, not the smartest of God's creatures....

View attachment 185442
Awesome stuff, thanks once again for all this input. Yeah I think I'll stay off the untrailed backcountry sections given it's going to be snow covered. Having second thoughts about climbing the ladder on Notch trail in the snow, but still can't wait to get out there and see it all.

Most predictions show 1-3" snow on Saturday. How does the area typically do with keeping I90 clear?
 
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PrtLng Lion

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I have family in Chamberlain and I watch their weather for kicks and giggles. The Hills are normally colder than they have it.
It gonna be cold for your hikes!

OL
Love it, bring it on! We're going to be wearing many layers, have all extremities covered, etc. Born and raised in PA, have hiked in the Poconos in the winter, so the winter weather doesn't worry me.
 

JohnH

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Awesome stuff, thanks once again for all this input. Yeah I think I'll stay off the untrailed backcountry sections given it's going to be snow covered. Having second thoughts about climbing the ladder on Notch trail in the snow, but still can't wait to get out there and see it all.

Most predictions show 1-3" snow on Saturday. How does the area typically do with keeping I90 clear?
1-3 inches doesn't count as snow in these parts. It's a 'dusting.' If it's going to snow on one of your days, that day might be good for a Deadwood-Spearfish-D Tower.
 

JohnH

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Love it, bring it on! We're going to be wearing many layers, have all extremities covered, etc. Born and raised in PA, have hiked in the Poconos in the winter, so the winter weather doesn't worry me.
Dude, don't take this the wrong way, b/c I too was raised in Luzerne Cty and know the Poconos.

Winter up here is on a completely different level, cold and wind. He's departed, but if he does Harney, for example, once you cross the metal mini bridge, and round that final big bend, and go up the ladder, then hit the final stairway, the wind comes in HARD, and the feel is like a 10 degree or more drop. (The shelter of course is a blessing). If it's say 25 degrees in Rapid City, at Harney's summit it's gonna be like 10 below, with that perpetual high wind. That's why if you google it, they're all folks doing it in high summer. Even badlands is gonna have harsh winter winds.

So he'll need really good winter gloves, a heavy headgear esp. to cover ears (maybe a spare face covering too), good insulated boots, and either layers of clothing or high quality winter coverings. Custer, D. Tower are more 'normal', but even things around Rushmore, like the Pinnacles - it's a harder winter weather right now there than in Wayne County or pout behind Bear Creek in January.
 
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LionJim

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Boy, I’m loving this thread. Just saying. Carry on.
 

OhioLion

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Rapid City
Saturday high is 26 with 50% chance of snow and steady 26 mph winds.

You are a lot tougher than me @PrtLng Lion
I don’t like blowing snow off the drive with that type of weather. No way I’m hiking!

Best wishes and enjoy.

OL
 
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JohnH

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Rapid City
Saturday high is 26 with 50% chance of snow and steady 26 mph winds.

You are a lot tougher than me @PrtLng Lion
I don’t like blowing snow off the drive with that type of weather. No way I’m hiking!

Best wishes and enjoy.

OL
I DID have one photo of SD prairie dogs. So...most of us honestly would see them like a farmer or Bill Murray from Caddyshack. Get out your M80s..

1646510095593.png

A nice other one that I had of the tower, which will be similar in that its coniferous forest there.

1646510293252.png

There's a few spots to stop at Spearfish on the drive, however watch all that ice.....Don't know whether the waterfall is frozen or not.

1646512107098.png
 
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JohnH

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I have family in Chamberlain and I watch their weather for kicks and giggles. The Hills are normally colder than they have it.
It gonna be cold for your hikes!

OL
Chamberlain was our half-way stop from MN to the Black Hills. Loved walking in to the Missouri River, even if a reservoir. We buffalo burgers, by the way, at the Main Street Cafe, if I recall. Good stuff. They had GREAT curly fries!
 

JohnH

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Rapid City
Saturday high is 26 with 50% chance of snow and steady 26 mph winds.

You are a lot tougher than me @PrtLng Lion
I don’t like blowing snow off the drive with that type of weather. No way I’m hiking!

Best wishes and enjoy.

OL
So, when talking about how even in early July it's different up in the Mountain West, the family did Yellowstone a couple of years after Black Hills. (Fabulous). The kids of course wanted to go up to the summit at Mount Washburne, dragging their old man with them. So this is early July folks. (Note the Penn State wear - totally forgot.) How cold are they....at best it was high 30s, and I'd say 30+ miles/hr winds. Yet go down only 500 feet, no winds, in 50s and such. That's how things change when you get close to these summits - though Harney is 2500 feet or more less elevation.

1646513188197.png

Near the summit. Views were awesome. Oh, by the way. When you take all those photos, have you/womeone type in the places. Once you get scores or more of these you forget the places after a while. I wish I'd had the boys do all the shots. But they did a bunch.

1646513293232.jpeg

Anyway, the real reason I wanted to attach these is THIS picture. So it's a dirt/gravel road leading people up to the Washburne summit. You walk it, no climbing. But after a while, you have to walk through snow/ice semi-tunnels, because even near high summer, the snow doesn't melt enough. My eldest carved his name on one of these snow/ice walls "Ben was here". That's how much the temperature/weather is different from back east. This was like first 2 weeks of July, maybe 4-5 years ago? Note how high these walls are too. Elevation at this spot maybe 9,000 feet?

1646513613232.png
 
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PrtLng Lion

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Hiked several trails in the Badlands today. It was AWESOME. Very few people in the park. Temp ~20F with 30+mph gusts. We had plenty of layers on.

Here’s a couple clips from Saddle Pass, up by the top where it turns into prairie. Wish i could post the video we took from the top- sounded like a hurricane. Snow was building up a lot on our way up, about 6" in a couple spots coming back down.

Saddle_Pass1.png
Saddle_Pass2.png
 
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JohnH

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Hiked several trails in the Badlands today. It was AWESOME. Very few people in the park. Temp ~20F with 30+mph gusts. We had plenty of layers on.

Here’s a couple clips from Saddle Pass, up by the top where it turns into prairie. Wish i could post the video we took from the top- sounded like a hurricane. Snow was building up a lot on our way up, about 6" in a couple spots coming back down.

View attachment 185776
View attachment 185777
Excellent! Sorry you couldn't get sunlight. Now, Badlands vs Harney? Oh, 40 degree difference and another 20 mph of wind......

Probably no animals about.....maybe Custer?
 
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PrtLng Lion

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Excellent! Sorry you couldn't get sunlight. Now, Badlands vs Harvey? Oh, 40 degree difference and another 20 mph of wind......

Probably no animals about.....maybe Custer?
Saw a pack of 7 deer, and two white long-horned sheep (not sure what they're called) on our way out of the park this afternoon. No bison (yet). Have on video but no still shots. How can one paste videos here (or can't we)?

Planning to try Black Elk Peak tomorrow (or some other trail nearby, along with either Custer and/or Rushmore) or Mon (the other day driving to Devil's Tower, Spearfish, and Deadwood). Son wants to fly his drone near DT on Monday since it's supposed to be sunny.
 
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