Anyone ever been? If so, can anyone provide feedback on their experience? We are thinking of going this summer with 2 high school/college aged kids.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
OT: Glacier National Park
- Thread starter BonzoGoesToCollege
- Start date
I went when I was about 10 years old so almost 40 years ago, but even at that age I loved it. The scenery out there is absolutely mind blowing. Highly recommend. If you're driving I'd try to hit some of the other parks on your way like Rocky Mtn National Park and Yellowstone.
Go to NPS.gov and navigate to Glacier page. Pay close attention to the mandatory vehicle registration information for accessing the GTTSR corridor. Too many 17n MFers have unfortunately discovered the awesomeness that is Glacier. 17n 3 million visitors annually with the VAST MAJORITY trying to cram their *** onto GTTSR between May 27 and September 11. In short, prepare yourself for ungodly traffic and wait times.
I went back in 2018 and it was absolutely phenomenal.
1) Don't try to do it in a day, there's way too much.
2) Find a way to pick huckleberries. Apparently they cannot be domesticated and only grow in that area of the country. Think of a blackberry and a blueberry having a lovechild.
3) Since COVID, I have heard that there is no more "let's go to Glacier." I can't remember if they said it was a lotto system or you have to purchase tickets in advance for certain days a certain distance out. I would confirm prior to leaving home to make sure.
4) Fly into Kallispell Airport (We flew there from Salt Lake) and spend 1-2 days in Kallispell by Flathead Lake. It's a slick little town that time seems to not have touched.
I enjoyed Glacier Nat'l more than I enjoyed the Grand Canyon, they call it "Big Sky" for a reason.
1) Don't try to do it in a day, there's way too much.
2) Find a way to pick huckleberries. Apparently they cannot be domesticated and only grow in that area of the country. Think of a blackberry and a blueberry having a lovechild.
3) Since COVID, I have heard that there is no more "let's go to Glacier." I can't remember if they said it was a lotto system or you have to purchase tickets in advance for certain days a certain distance out. I would confirm prior to leaving home to make sure.
4) Fly into Kallispell Airport (We flew there from Salt Lake) and spend 1-2 days in Kallispell by Flathead Lake. It's a slick little town that time seems to not have touched.
I enjoyed Glacier Nat'l more than I enjoyed the Grand Canyon, they call it "Big Sky" for a reason.
I don’t have any experience there. But there is a poster that lurks here 1984dog that might. Hopefully he sees this. I was planning a trip a couple years ago to Yellowstone and he sent me some really detailed and awesome information. My guess is he’s probably spent some time in Glacier too. You should reach out to him via DM.
I went in November when some of the roads were closed. Going back this summer. You can buy going to the sun road tickets like 120 days in advance (which I haven’t done), and once those are sold out, there’s an allotment each morning at 8am. I’d make sure you figure out that part
We went about 10 years ago. Great trip especially if you have kids. Be sure to go to the Montanavortex (16 miles from Glacier). Hard to explain but very interesting. Look it up on the web. It's not too far from the park entrance. Also be sure to go to Whitefish ski resort (35 miles from Glacier). Even in the summer you can ride the ski lift up to the top and ride a one or two man sled down to the bottom. Lots of wildlife in and near glacier. We saw a lot of Big Horn Sheep (Rams) and mountain goats up close. We saw a few black bears but no Grizzley. We drove the Going to the Sun Road all the way to the Logan Pass Visitor Center and then went on a small hike. That's where we saw most of the wildlife.
We went last September. Spent a few days in Whitefish, then into GNP for a week. We stayed at the Rising Sun Motor Inn and Cabins inside the park, right on GTTSR. "Rustic", that is a dump, but I recommend it. Takes a lot of the waiting out - you get in once and then can ride the shuttles around. It seems like there was some rule about getting shuttle passes in advance - like "go monday for wednesday passes" - but not a problem since the east entrance center was about 2miles away. We left the park every evening to find dinner. Out and back in was not a problem after hours - about 1800.
I'd pass on Whitefish and spend a couple of days in Kalispel instead if you want to do something like that. We had fun in Whitefish, but it seemed kinda like a Jackson Hole wannabe. Some breweries in Kalispel
As noted, big crowds, especially at Logan Pass and the west side lodge (can't remember the name - looked it up, Lake Macdonald Lodge). Ride the shuttles and you can dodge the parking problems and enjoy some fantastic hikes. Smaller crowds on the east side, and the hikes around St Mary Lake are unbelievable, waterfalls and the lake.
Crowded, but make sure to do the hike from Logan Pass Center to Hidden Lake. Fantastic vistas, and almost assured to see mountain goats and bighorns.
The Many Glacier area is fantastic, but is sorta isolated from the rest of the park. From GNP east entry count on about 45-60 min drive on a good day, on a bad road. Go early - if you mess around that hour can turn into multiples. There's a breakfast joint on the east side of the highway before you get to the Many Glacier turn. it's really good, run by a woman from Memphis. It's really worth doing MG, though a bit of trouble from where we stayed.
Food was a problem when we were there. No restaurants in the park were open - covid. We wound up leaving every evening for dinner in St Mary's or thereabouts. Freeze dried breakfasts on a jet boil, and we bought bread and PBJ for lunches. No refrigerators/microwaves in the cabins at Rising sun. The camp store at Rising Sun had beer, cokes, coffee, snacks and such.
Stop and buy bear spray for everybody on the way in. Seems like it was Cabelas/basspro just outside whitefish where we bought it. Don't cheap out and buy 1 for the group. The rangers will frown at you. You probably won't use it, and will have to leave it there for the boy scouts, but "one never knows, do one?"
There's enough fantastic hiking along GTTSR to keep you occupied for a week. We never went west of Apgar or made it to Two Medicine.
Staying in the Park is $$, and somewhat a PITA to schedule, you have to be a little flexible with dates, but I wouldn't do it if I couldn't stay in the park, just too much windshield/wait time otherwise.
But do it. GNP is far beyond belief.
Cocktail hour from our cabin porch:
View attachment 24256
I'd pass on Whitefish and spend a couple of days in Kalispel instead if you want to do something like that. We had fun in Whitefish, but it seemed kinda like a Jackson Hole wannabe. Some breweries in Kalispel
As noted, big crowds, especially at Logan Pass and the west side lodge (can't remember the name - looked it up, Lake Macdonald Lodge). Ride the shuttles and you can dodge the parking problems and enjoy some fantastic hikes. Smaller crowds on the east side, and the hikes around St Mary Lake are unbelievable, waterfalls and the lake.
Crowded, but make sure to do the hike from Logan Pass Center to Hidden Lake. Fantastic vistas, and almost assured to see mountain goats and bighorns.
The Many Glacier area is fantastic, but is sorta isolated from the rest of the park. From GNP east entry count on about 45-60 min drive on a good day, on a bad road. Go early - if you mess around that hour can turn into multiples. There's a breakfast joint on the east side of the highway before you get to the Many Glacier turn. it's really good, run by a woman from Memphis. It's really worth doing MG, though a bit of trouble from where we stayed.
Food was a problem when we were there. No restaurants in the park were open - covid. We wound up leaving every evening for dinner in St Mary's or thereabouts. Freeze dried breakfasts on a jet boil, and we bought bread and PBJ for lunches. No refrigerators/microwaves in the cabins at Rising sun. The camp store at Rising Sun had beer, cokes, coffee, snacks and such.
Stop and buy bear spray for everybody on the way in. Seems like it was Cabelas/basspro just outside whitefish where we bought it. Don't cheap out and buy 1 for the group. The rangers will frown at you. You probably won't use it, and will have to leave it there for the boy scouts, but "one never knows, do one?"
There's enough fantastic hiking along GTTSR to keep you occupied for a week. We never went west of Apgar or made it to Two Medicine.
Staying in the Park is $$, and somewhat a PITA to schedule, you have to be a little flexible with dates, but I wouldn't do it if I couldn't stay in the park, just too much windshield/wait time otherwise.
But do it. GNP is far beyond belief.
Cocktail hour from our cabin porch:
View attachment 24256
I'm taking my clan July 11-17. There is a Music Festival in Whitefish (Under The Big Sky Music Festival) the 15-16-17 that we want to try to catch some of as well. Tough part will be finding lodging at this point other than weekdays, but I guess if you’re willing to spend, there will be something available.
We are taking the Flying ********* up and have a couple of nights booked at an RV park in Hungry Horse and will boondock the rest of the time. Bonzo (Or you Zombie) if you are up there at that time, let me know. We catch up for drinks or pitch in a rent a boat out on Flathead lake something. I will be bringing a couple of tandem kayaks as well if you want to borrow them for a day we can coordinate.
I wouldn't book much later than mid July. Snowpack's out here are terrible this year and it's going to be a long smokey fire season. The whole NW will be covered with smoke by August and you will have to just hope for a lot of help from the wind to catch the views. Again. I would not risk going in August. See pictures below, for what your view look like on a bluebird clear day vs a smoke day.
View attachment 24257
We are taking the Flying ********* up and have a couple of nights booked at an RV park in Hungry Horse and will boondock the rest of the time. Bonzo (Or you Zombie) if you are up there at that time, let me know. We catch up for drinks or pitch in a rent a boat out on Flathead lake something. I will be bringing a couple of tandem kayaks as well if you want to borrow them for a day we can coordinate.
I wouldn't book much later than mid July. Snowpack's out here are terrible this year and it's going to be a long smokey fire season. The whole NW will be covered with smoke by August and you will have to just hope for a lot of help from the wind to catch the views. Again. I would not risk going in August. See pictures below, for what your view look like on a bluebird clear day vs a smoke day.
View attachment 24257
We’re going in June. I have a friend with a cherry farm at flathead, so we may go back in July or August while he’s there. He lives elsewhere for the rest of the year. Will let you know if we’re going to be in the area. I’m taking a new job that lets me work wherever.
It's one of the best places in the world.
Get up early and be one of the first in the park. Plan your hiking in advance. The road is crowded, parking is a *****, but in less than five minutes you can leave all that behind on dozens of easy to moderate trails.
Take the boat ride and hike behind Many Glacier--lots of bears and moose in that area, but they'll keep their distance. Most likely.
Hire a guide and take an overnight trip on the Flathead if you can swing it. Let 'em guide you through the rapids, take a couple of backcountry hikes (they'll show you the huckleberry patches), and they'll cook you a beautiful steak in a completely empty stretch of river in mountain scenery most will never be able to see. And they'll sleep outside guarding the kitchen from bears.
Drink a huckleberry shake, eat a huckleberry pie and bring home two jars of huckleberry jam.
I went with 15, 12, and 9 year old girls and they loved Glacier as much or more than any place we've ever been with them--and they've been all over.
Get up early and be one of the first in the park. Plan your hiking in advance. The road is crowded, parking is a *****, but in less than five minutes you can leave all that behind on dozens of easy to moderate trails.
Take the boat ride and hike behind Many Glacier--lots of bears and moose in that area, but they'll keep their distance. Most likely.
Hire a guide and take an overnight trip on the Flathead if you can swing it. Let 'em guide you through the rapids, take a couple of backcountry hikes (they'll show you the huckleberry patches), and they'll cook you a beautiful steak in a completely empty stretch of river in mountain scenery most will never be able to see. And they'll sleep outside guarding the kitchen from bears.
Drink a huckleberry shake, eat a huckleberry pie and bring home two jars of huckleberry jam.
I went with 15, 12, and 9 year old girls and they loved Glacier as much or more than any place we've ever been with them--and they've been all over.
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Congrats on this one. It's a game changer. Just let me know if you guys make it out.
Glacier is a spectacular place to visit but requires more planning than most if you plan to see all the sites along the GTSR (going to the sun road). The road doesn’t open all the way to Logan pass (at the top) until early July most years, and has required a lottery style pass the last couple of years unless you enter very early or late. There are ways around this, such as booking a boat tour or lodging within the park, but these sell out very early as well.
I spent a wonderful week there last August and would be happy to help you with any suggestions if you would like to private message me.
I spent a wonderful week there last August and would be happy to help you with any suggestions if you would like to private message me.
We rented a loft apt downtown Whitefish three years ago. It wasn't crowded at all in June, but the Road to the Sun wasn't completely open yet. We hiked a fair amount on the trail that were open. Avalanche Lake is a must for us. Several great (to us) restaurants in Whitefish, including Abruzzo's, Last Chair, Latitude 48, Tupelo Grille. The park is the closest thing to a Bob Ross painting I've ever seen.
Did you get your Airstream or did you get something else for the interim? I'm thinking about going with a roof top tent this year and just boondocking on public lands.
Picked up the Airstream a few weeks ago.
If you have your gear ready and can make Mid July work, we might be able to boondock somewhere and make a little compound. I'm sure I could use an excuse to slip off from the fam for a day as well.
Just let me know.
We'll see how the summer goes. Will defiinitely meet up with you for a beer somewhere. With gas prices right now I can afford to drive about 100yds a day.
No kidding. It's mud season up here as the snow melts off and it was almost gone until this week. 5" so far today.
Coaching little league until mid June then I am pretty open.
Coaching little league until mid June then I am pretty open.
With older kids, you should try some longer hikes. Iceberg Lake from Many Glacier is 10 miles , but not too bad and well worth it. Ptarmigan tunnel is tougher but just incredible. You can combine them with a 14 mile day.
Also Swiftcurrent pass is on my bucket list, from the east side but may be longer.
We did Syeh pass a few years back, also 10 miles but doable and really great.
Johnson Family farm is a place on the east side, they sometimes have lodging and usually camping and their homemade breakfast is the best ever. I did a week in glacier for my 40th and didn't lose weight and I'm sure it's because if those breakfasts.
I want to go next year but will confess these crowd reports make me nervous. I'm curious to hear how all of your trips turn out.
Also Swiftcurrent pass is on my bucket list, from the east side but may be longer.
We did Syeh pass a few years back, also 10 miles but doable and really great.
Johnson Family farm is a place on the east side, they sometimes have lodging and usually camping and their homemade breakfast is the best ever. I did a week in glacier for my 40th and didn't lose weight and I'm sure it's because if those breakfasts.
I want to go next year but will confess these crowd reports make me nervous. I'm curious to hear how all of your trips turn out.
That’s a strong lineup for Under the Big Sky.
The headliners are of course great but it’s the performers in smaller print who I wouldn’t miss.
Sierra Ferrell was my breakout performer of the year last year.
Sierra Hull was great at the Ryman in January and I plan to catch her perform again with Béla Fleck’s My Bluegrass Heart tour again this summer.
American Aquarium is awesome. BJ Barham is one of the hardest workers out there.
The headliners are of course great but it’s the performers in smaller print who I wouldn’t miss.
Sierra Ferrell was my breakout performer of the year last year.
Sierra Hull was great at the Ryman in January and I plan to catch her perform again with Béla Fleck’s My Bluegrass Heart tour again this summer.
American Aquarium is awesome. BJ Barham is one of the hardest workers out there.
Hdogg is spot on about good family hikes —Ice Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel— both worthwhile. Only thing I’d add is September is the best time IMO to visit Glacier as some of the summer crowd dies down. Most trails remain open into early October.
The best hike I have ever done in Glacier is Dawson-Pitimakin (sp?) trail. Long but highly rewarding. Saw grizzlies, big horn sheep and breathtaking scenery. We did a loop that was just over 20 miles as I recall. That one is not for children due to length.
The best hike I have ever done in Glacier is Dawson-Pitimakin (sp?) trail. Long but highly rewarding. Saw grizzlies, big horn sheep and breathtaking scenery. We did a loop that was just over 20 miles as I recall. That one is not for children due to length.
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