If you’re using ethanol gas in a small engine regularly (ie a lawn mower or weedeater in summer) then it will be fine. If you’re going to park it for the winter and not use it much you can drain the gas or put an additive like Sta-bil in it that will keep the fuel from separating.
If you’re going to use non ethanol gas you’ll have to use it for the life of the engine IMO. If you use non ethanol and then switch, the ethanol gas is going to clean out all the buildup from the non gas and clog up your carburetor or other components.
We have been using ethanol gas in all our small engines on the farm for years and have zero issues other than normal maintenance.
ETA: If you have a modern car, use ethanol gas. Theyre designed to run on it. If you’ve got an older or classic car that ran on non ethanol gas for years you might want to find some non or it’s going to clean it out like I described above.
Wrong. Dead wrong.
Holy 17 stop with your folksy, small sample-sized agenda about this.
We've had this debate before.
Sta-bill is a fuel stabilizer that consists of primarily mineral oil to slow down fuel oxidation.
It does nothing to stop alcohol/ethanol from soaking into rubber hoses, lines, grommets, and gaskets.
I am a former Briggs/Honda/Robin/Yamaha cerified mechanic, and have worked on countless ATV's and watercraft, have seen the studies, and have collaborated with field engineers on this very subject.
The fuel lines/grommets/seals/gaskets, in anything other than passenger vehicles, are NOT engineered with ethanol compatible components. If you have been lucky, congrats.
E-10 can cause serious damage to small engines even in the short term. I can cite you examples of short-term ethanol damage that takes very little time to cause adverse effects. Fuel lines in this application tend to be small and delicate, and typically swell when exposed to ethanol. Even if the engine is swapped back to ethanol-free-fuel relatively quickly, the damage can be done in short order and will rear it's head eventually, usually when the weather cools off. The components of many small engines cannot handle so much as a week of regular e-10 fuel before it damages fuel lines or gaskets.
Just because your private, small sample size works, does not mean this is good advice for the masses.
In 1997, I was privileged to sit in on a conference with Husqvarna engineers from Sweden about this. The concensus was unanimous. Ethanol-laced fuel was becoming more prominent, and small-engine engineers saw what was coming. A tank-full of ethanol fuel used in Husqvarna equipment was clearly obvious, whether stabilizer was used, or not. Warranties were voided for "spaghetti'-like fuel lines, regardless of hours. We noted that fuel tank leaks, and negative-pressure-fuel -line collapse in Husqvarna, Stihl,, Shindawa, and other 2-cycle manufactures increased exponentially with the introduction of even a small amount of ethanol.
We went so far as conducting experiments using typical non-automotive 1/4" and 3/8" fuel line (used on larger, and even commercial lawn equipment) and documented degradation in both, with just one exposure to E-10. In simple field testing, we also found "regular" pump gas to have anywhere from 6% to 15% ethanol, depending on the station.
Some small equipment *can* handle E-10 or higher for a peiod of time, perhaps because the fuel lines are large diameter, or the ethanol content in the area is minimal; either way, it's not a good cost/benefit gamble. The vast majority of small engine, ATV's, and boat engine manufacturers tell you ethanol-free-fuel is recommended, and for good reason.
This is from someone who makes a killing on working on small engines on the side to this very day.
FFS, unless it's your passenger vehicle, use Non-ethanol. If not, I'll be glad to take your money and lecture you later.